After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind.
Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was Belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and hum.
Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of Surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith.
After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind