**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting
William Burroughs on controlled substances
Updike on adultery.
Like Jon Krakauer\'s Into the Wild, it is a sympathetic examination of what happens when literary ideas of freedom and purity take hold of a young mind and fling his body out into t.
But on a more fundamental level, Barbarian Days offers a clear-eyed vision of American boyhood. . .
Praise for Barbarian Days Without a doubt, the finest surf book I\'ve ever read .
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
As Finnegan\'s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria.
Youthful folly--he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui--is served up with rueful humor.
He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them.
He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s.
Finnegan shares stories of Life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu.
It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.
Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses--off the coasts of New York and San Francisco.
A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter.
He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa.
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started Surfing as a child.
To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
Surfing only looks like a sport. a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.--Sports Illustrated Included in President Obama\'s 2016 Summer Reading List Barbarian Days is William Finnegan\'s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. . . . **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting
William Burroughs on controlled substances
Updike on adultery
