Description " Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate...
It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life " - Charlie Spurr - The Mus. grab a copy on Amazon " - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast " I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers.
Description " Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate..